Morocco Tips for Photographers

Al-Magrib Tips for Photographers

7th February 2017

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Morocco has ever been screaky connected my list of places to visit and in Crataegus oxycantha 2012 I finally made it a reality with a 12 day family holiday with two young kids – albeit a turn on where photography was firmly in bear in mind. Preceding to going away I had two stereotyped images of Morocco as my pictorial representation goal: the winding streets of old Marrakesh and the sand dunes of the Sahara Desert. Later striking the road though I cursorily realized Morocco had so very much more to offer the traveller and lensman. IT's safe, friendly, easy to nonplus around and boasts a surprisingly various range of striking views.

In just under fortnight we swarm ourselves around the country, taking-in some of the known sights along with some of those less-visited. By mid-way I was badly impressed and by the end I'd rank Morocco as one of the highlights in my life of travelling.

But if you've ne'er visited, you may understandably not know where to start. I know I didn't, and it took weeks of research to nail-down an path which included the desired locations and right adjustment. So along this page I'd like to partake our trip with you, the places we visited, the places we stayed, and crucially for the photographers tabu there, tips on what to take and where to take them!

Preeminence totally the photos were taken with a Panasonic GX1 – see my Panasonic GX1 review and the videos below for more details!

Video blogs

I'll start with two video blogs I made during and after my trip to Morocco. The first was filmed connected the edge of the Sahara about middle through my trip and describes some of the highlights so far along with the picture taking equipment I took with Pine Tree State. The second video looks at the techniques behind my favourite photos in Marruecos. This video was recorded in Spain and opens with a brief update of my working vacation try out where I'm nerve-racking to run my business happening the road.

Transportation in Morocco

Most tourists spend their first night in Marrakech or Fes, and most in all probability stay in, or at any rate spend some time exploring the old town, the Medina. With their narrow twisty streets and chaotic mopeds heading in all focus, you'd be forgiven for not wanting to parkway at all. Intrinsically IT's non surprising to find many tourists either profitable for a guide, a driver OR joining a tour when exiting the City.

If that's your thing, then fancy it, just rent out me assure you, it's a altogether different country outside of those ancient streets. We hired a 2WD manual-transmission elevator car from Sixt in Marrakech and I found information technology bad straightforward to get around – certainly if you've driven about almost any metropolis in Italy, you'll be fine in the Bodoni parts of Marrakech or Fes, and if you've navigated switchbacks, you'll have no more problem climbing the mountains or gorges. Information technology was even okay for a few minutes of beachlike cross-country dynamical to our Kasbah on the boundary of the Sahara; there's rattling no need for a 4WD unless you're in truth seriously exit off-itinerant. The car cost just nether $300 USD for eight days including a drop-sour at a assorted location; be sure to ask for one with broadcast conditioning and make a point it works before you chase away.

Talking of navigation the signposts were pretty not bad, but as a backup we simply cached the areas we were going to drive through on a smartphone antecedent to departure then used the phone's Global Positioning System to pinpoint our billet. To memory cache the roads, just scroll and zoom around the desirable areas in the Maps covering at your hotel before setting off. This worked really well on my Samsung Galaxy S and didn't require a seaborne connection on the road either; indeed once my international SIMs were rejected past the local networks, I simply removed them and travelled SIM-self-governing, copulative instead to Wifi at the hotels and riads.

Forthwith don't get me wrong – thither's no more way of life I was active to screw the old towns, but there's no need to. Just commons outside them, or arrange your actuate so that the driving part occurs between visiting the sexagenarian towns. That's what we did with Marrakech at the start and Fes at the end. Sixt as wel allowed us to collect the car from Marrakech and fall-soured at Fes.

Happening a last note, we flew into Marrakech with EasyJet from London and out of Fes to Barcelona with RyanAir. Both are budget airlines, so be prepared to hoodwink the contents of your luggage to meet their strict weight limits: a tight 15Kg for check-in bags, but 10Kg of hand baggage per person. This may vary when you go around, so constitute sure to check in front turning up at the airport!

12 days in Morocco: years unrivalled and two in Marrakech

On our maiden day, we flew into Marrakech from Jack London with EasyJet. We treasured an easy arrival, so had booked cardinal nights at the highly rated Riad Limouna, and requested a machine to collect us from the airport. As it happened, the airdrome was very civilized and hassle-free, but when visiting a raw commonwealth with kids in tow, it's always nice to know you have channelise organized which will take you straight to your accommodation without first visiting fifty carpet shops. We paid 15 Euros for the transfer which is expensive compared to local taxis, but when you've just landed in an unfamiliar country with kids in tow, it can be money symptomless-washed-out until you bugger off your bearings.

Riad Limouna was everything I wanted from a Riad, with standard styling, but modern flourishes ensuring everything was real prosperous. Manager Antoine did a great job at making us feel at home and responsive any questions, while his staff managed the tricky balance of existence super attentive without ever so getting in the way. I generally favour to eat up out, but a late reaching with the kids meant it was easier to dine out at the Riad and the home cooked meal at Riad Limouna didn't disappoint, with the for the first time of many superior Tagines on our trip.

Our room (with one double, one I and one cot bed) was comforted and beautifully decorated, although traditional thick walls meant the Wifi signal inevitably became weak in places. Luckily the point is much stronger in the rich ground level lounge and dining areas in the centre of the building, plus you'll delight the benefit of lash out-the-clock ne mint teatime. Which indeed I did. A excitable warning though: there's lots of things to possibly bash over at the Riad, so if you have Brigham Young or unruly kids, beware. We paid 90 Euros a night for the room with breakfast, and an additional 50 Euros for two dinners on the first night; like most of the places we stayed at, we were quoted an extra fee for the kids, merely after abbreviated negotiation it was almost always waived. So not only would you get beds or cots for them to sleep on, but if you were besides eating dinner or breakfast, they were served food too.

Riad Limouna is located on the edge of the Medina fitting earlier the streets get ahead really narrow and crooked; indeed IT's about as far As you'd very want to drive a railroad car into the old town and there's parking nearby if you want to leave a car. The best part just about the location though is a close famous restaurant – not for visiting the restaurant itself, just the fact in that location's signs for it all over, making it almost impossible to get lost roughly the winding streets.

As for Marrakech itself, the Medina delivered the experience I wanted with wonderful twisting streets and good deal of action and colour without you ever so feeling at risk; there was also surprisingly little hassle from street sellers compared to India or parts of South Asia, although mayhap they were being respectful of a family with kids.

In terms of photography, I ended up preferring to shoot the streets rather than the actual market stalls, especially after dark – over again not imputable safety issues, I just favored the look after during the day. I found the scoop lenses were wide angles to capture street life operating room macros for details. Dedicated street shooters might prefer a short telephoto, but atomic number 4 witting many of the locals prefer not to equal photographed – and they'Re not shying away looking for a lean against either. I quickly realized while the tourists flock to the white-haired markets, there are many locals who live and do work here, and they understandably don't apprise a camera in the face.

The future day we enjoyed exploring more of the Medina by foot and sampling the respective food stalls in the archaeozoic evening. As always, the canny traveller's rule applies: aim for stalls with mostly topical customers and head off those with largely tourists and you won't whirl far wrong, although in Marrakech you Crataegus laevigata subsequently fetch up dining on sheep's head up. (I resisted that particular delicacy, instead heading for the thick soups and tiny sausages which were excellent).

Day three: over the Atlas Mountains to Ait Benhaddou

The following morning we booked a letting car at Sixt and caught a local cab to the modern part of the townspeople to collect it. If, comparable the States, you'd only been in the Medina so far, it may come atomic number 3 a shock to realise that Marrakech is – of course – a recent city, and getting around poses nary problems at all adios as you know how to drive a manual car happening the right side of the road and dodge the episodic overly-enthusiastic truck or moped.

We were heading Confederate States of America East over the Map collection Mountains on the N9 towards a small village close to Ouarzate. It's a big stopping point along your first night out of Marrakesh A information technology's alone a few hours drive over the mountains and gives you time to enjoy the views and arrive ahead sunset. Ane quick tip though: on the outskirts of Marrakech you'll pass Metro, one of the hardly a large supermarkets, so it's a good theme to stock up connected lunchtime snacks and water for the side by side some days. They also sell Moroccan wine which is fountainhead worth disagreeable, but you whitethorn postulate to present your passport at checkout. Lamentably there's no in-store bakeshop, so grab some lucre in the markets before leaving if that's important to you.

The drive itself over the mountains is passabl easy, although you Crataegus laevigata mire behind some very dull vehicles. There's quite a a a couple of pull-outs where you can grab photos, but be mindful that most of the better views across Morocco are also home to people selling varied minerals and rocks (or honey in other regions). None gave me a hard time or a challenging sell though, so don't let them put you off from stopping and snapping.

Our adjustment for dark three was Lodge Ayouze, in the small village of Asfalou, just a couple of minutes past the ancient mire-brick fortified hamlet of Ait Benhaddou. Strain and get there before sunset equally Benhaddou looks best with low sunlight. We arrived in clock time, but past the time I found a good advantage point, the Solarize had already just about touched the horizon. I rose archean the next day, but if you're only in that respect for one night – as I was – you'll ideally want to maximize your chances.

The eld of Ait Benhaddou is unknown, but walk around it you'll feel transported back to biblical times; indeed many movies have secondhand IT as a filming position including The Man World Health Organization would be Male monarch, Jesus of Nazareth, Time Bandits, The Living Daylights, The Worst temptation of Christ, Kundun, Gladiator, Alexander and Kingdom of Heaven. It's an absolutely stunning mint, whether viewed from a outdistance or exploring on foot.

If you want an establishing shot of the 'town' you can weave your style through driveways rear the shops from the main touring and emerge on a back road with a nice slightly elevated view (albeit with few trees in the way); to me this looked better than the ground-level view from the main entree. In that location's also a bridge nearby which takes you straight into the buildings without any fee. Don't acquire me wrong, I don't want to avoid entrance fees, IT's vindicatory that as far as I understand, on that point isn't an established fee and whatever takings from the main entrance get into't actually go back to support the site. Hopefully arsenic a UNESCO World Inheritance site, IT'll gain comely protection and support in the early. But at the time I visited, you could pretty much enter and wander around completely freely.

Suffice it to say the interior streets are disorienting and you feel like you'atomic number 75 part of a Biblical epic. Selfsame highly recommended, atomic number 3 was the Lodge Ayouze, a small lodge with nice rooms, friendly stave and a good dinner. Note the Wifi was very bumper-to-bumper during my hitch though and only available in the common areas like the waiting room / dining room, not in the rooms beyond. I sure as shooting wouldn't pay the extra fee to access information technology, then again to be fair, that evening they gave me the cypher for free, so IT seems churlish to complain. We paid-up 610 DM for the way (one double with two singles), which included dinner and breakfast for all of us; (250 for the room, 270 for three dinners and 90 for three breakfasts; our under-cardinal Ate free people).

Note I'm not normally a fan of feeding dinner (or symmetric breakfast) at my lodgings, instead preferring to check out independent cafes, markets and restaurants, but while travelling through Morocco we often found ourselves staying in very small villages – surgery symmetrical in the middle of nowhere – where there literally wasn't whatever other choice for meals. Luckily though, near all the meals we Ate at our lodgings were selfsame acceptable – and that's future day from a demanding foodie overly.

That evening around of the staff amused America with conventional music before they headed out for the Night. You're non expected to tip for this, only you may be expected to sum in!

Day 4: Making movies

We spent a precise enjoyable morning at Benhaddou, but headed-turned around lunchtime as we also wanted to squeeze in a visit to a close celebrated movie studio; indeed Atlas Studios claims to constitute the biggest in the universe. It's situated a few miles out-of-door of Ouarzazate, thusly you'll acquire on that point fairly quickly from Benhaddou by automobile.

The studio apartment itself looks like a vast compound from the outside with a gate guarded aside enormous Egyptian statues. Inside you'll find a hotel where you rear end book a tour (50 DM per adult), and after a short wait, a group of about 15 of us were tether through and through the main gates.

2 things straightaway shine you about Atlas Studios: the first is that it is absolutely vast. Your (compulsory) guide wish film your radical through enormous sets while gesturing at literal castles in the distance which are still part of the compound. The second matter you'll find is that everything is pretty endure-downward and in a state of decay. IT feels like it's been uninhibited to the elements, which after filming wraps, I guess it has. At that place surely doesn't seem to be any set about to conserve it, although it stiff great fun to explore the massive locate where scenes from Prizefighter, Kundun and Land of Heaven were filmed, and marvel at what can beryllium created out of polystyrene. Movie fans will love it, although Comprehensive Studios information technology ain't – and contempt online reports of some scenes from Stellar Wars apparently having been filmed nearby, I couldn't personally find any evidence of them. To be fair to Atlas Studios though, they never claimed they were.

We then headed connected to our fourth night's accommodation: a highly rated Riad / eco lodge named Sawadi, close to the small town of Skoura, itself near to Ouarzazate. This was located a hardly a miles from the independent road through Skoura on a track which mid-way crossed a wide dehydrated-up riverbed. Information technology was bumpy going on the 2WD and I'm pleased there was a truck to follow as the route across wasn't obvious – I'd for certain not recommend attempting this at night. You then have to travel along a series of garnet-colored arrows painted on walls, trees and buildings. It felt equal a never-ending search, but retracing our steps the next 24-hour interval revealed it wasn't anywhere near A long every bit it felt.

The accommodation itself was probably the nearly up-market of our trip, as was the dinner which was like an expert cooked and presented as you'd expect from the discerning French owners; indeed all but if not altogether of the ingredients were grown or sourced from their personal gardens. The staff were all nice, but I felt up on that point was a slightly snooty strain to just about of the early, generally older guests staying there – not all, but some. Well-heeled older couples wish flavour at home just those with young families Crataegus laevigata feel they're disturbing the peace.

I should also mention Sawatdi was the merely place we stayed at which wouldn't negotiate on accommodating and feeding the kids; to be mediocre it was only a flyspeck excess charge, but considering we arrived early evening without a reservation and the place was only close to half-full, you'd think on that point'd cost more room for negotiation. But then they know you've just driven a road across an unmarked riverbed and are unlikely to turn back at that hour. We paid 1406 DM in total for a room (one double, one convertible and one cot) with dinner party and breakfast; the room with breakfast was 800 DM plus an extra 100 DM for our 'tiddler tax', while dinner was 181 DM per adult plus 118 for les enfants.

I'd also add the 'Free Wireless local area network' extended about three feet from the reception at one end of the complex, rendering it well out of compass from the rooms Army of the Righteou alone the familiar lounge areas – a great shame as they were very plush and inviting. This sadly isn't uncommon in lodgings more or less the world, even in the US, just I flavour more should be said about it in reviews and whatsoever upscale place advertising Wifi as a feature or benefit should leastways ensure IT's available in the common areas as a minimum, and try arsenic hard as possible to extend it into the node rooms. Wholly it takes for smaller operations is a couple of affordable Wifi repeaters.

Mean solar day 5: Howdy Gorge-ous

After breakfast we set polish off from Sawadi and amazingly managed to find our way rachis across the winding-itinerant and dried up river do it back to Skoura promptly and without incident; we then continued on the N10 towards Morocco's best-known dyad of Gorges: Dades and Todra.

Ideally we wanted to visit some, but time was pressing on and information technology looked like we'd only manage to match one while still putt in close to miles towards the Sahara in front nightfall. We'd interpret Dades was the to the lowest degree touristy of the pair, and so took a gamble connected it, enjoying the sight of umpteen nonagenarian Kasbahs en-route.

We reached the turning for Gorge Dades fairly quickly, simply unsurprisingly the driveway into the gorge itself was slow and winding. The scene is withal worth the drive, whether it's the self-generated beauty of the geology or the settlements en-road. The foreground is when the route climbs from the river to the top of the gorge and back again via a serial of impressive switchbacks. At the very top is a large traditional-looking Kasbah / hotel / café which is a majuscule focal point for an expansive landscape shot of the gorge. There's a turnout a few hundred meters anterior to the edifice where you can clamber – with kid gloves – onto a ledge for a cliffy view down into the Gorge. I grabbed my tripod and took the opportunity to captivate a serial of images for a prospect. The lighting was sadly flat at the time I visited, but when you're driving fair distances between locations all day, you rarely get the chance to visit at the ideal time.

After summiting we drove a little further to a classic canon panoram with tall cliff walls and a straplike road through it alongside the river Dades. After winning a few photos we distinct to call on back and go out the Gorge as time was getting on and we felt we'd seen the main views. Simply where to stay that night?

We'd planned on one more Nox en-route to Merzouga where we'd pre-booked a camel tour for late the following afternoon, simply the towns we passed done after exiting Stuff Dades were proving less than inspirational. We had however scan glowing reports of Auberge le Festival located 5km within the next Gorge, Todra, and decided to go for IT; we didn't have a booking, but the entrance to the Gorge was littered with bright-looking places to stay soh we felt confident of getting a way for the night. It would also of course mean we'd get to see both of Al-Magrib's famous Gorges.

The reports we'd read were certainly reliable regarding the Gorges: Todra was much more touristy than Dades, with many more visitant adjustment options not to mention souvenir stalls piece within the most dramatic role of the gorge itself where the vertical walls towered tall above the roadworthy.

We continuing through the Gorge and subsequently a chunky drive tainted what looked like a small castle in the distance. Every bit we got nigher we realized this was Auberge LE Festival, a lowercase romantic hotel located deep within the Gorge away from anyplace else. It was a wonderful-looking building in a spectacular position which was pretty approachable simply matte up like it was in the middle of nowhere. We parked-up and were relieved to find oneself they had a rudimentary room with two beds and shared bathroom facilities available for the night chiefly building; it cost 525 DM including dinner and breakfast for all of us.

Auberge le Festival actually has five rooms built into caves along with a lovely teeny-weeny castle alongside the of import edifice. These were booked-leading considerably in supercharge, but we were happy with our room. There were nice patio areas around the hotel where you could savour the scene along with a pleasant reception / interior dining area, although the remote location meant Wifi or cellular coverage was away of the question.

The dinner, another Tagine, was nicely prepared, and American Samoa with Auberge Ayouze a twosome of nights earlier, followed by traditional music played on a miscellanea of bongos; the kids loved terpsichore to those. Breakfast the favourable morning was also very redemptive and I should note the only one of the trip which included eggs, served present Eastern Samoa an omlette aboard the common Moroccan breads. Despite not getting to undergo the 'romance' of a cave room, I adored our stay at Hostel LE Festival: a endearing set back with good intellectual nourishment in a beautiful location. I was really pleased we'd made the effort to drive into Gorges Todra after initially rejecting it in the morning.

Days 6 and 7: Into the Sahara…

We rosiness early the succeeding day – at least for U.S. – as we anticipated a long drive to Merzouga in order to make our 4:30pm camel tour. But a local guide who was bearing the otherwise direction assured me it was more like deuce-ac hours from our location in the Gorge Todra. He also reckoned the smaller but Sir Thomas More direct road to Arfoud was quicker than staying on the N10 via Errachidia before heading down the N13. We'd been inquisitive about this option ourselves, so were pleased to have topical anesthetic reassurance.

We crowded-up, mature off, and about one third of the way reached the turning-off the N10 onto a reassuringly paved, straight and fast road. As predicted by the guide earlier, we reached the cardinal-thirds mark at Arfoud around two hours after leaving the Gorges Todra and united the N13 Southwest to Rissani and Merzouga beyond.

Again the journey passed without incident, although as we drew ever closer to Merzouga we couldn't help just notice what looked like a distant mountain range bathed in the orange light of Sunset. Only it was midday and there were none mountains for miles. So it dawned along us the orange tree range was in fact a rely of sand dunes along the edge of the Sahara desert in the distance. Even from some way sour, information technology's an incredulous peck to see, and as we Drew ever-closer, sand began to make up evident on the side of the traveling.

Atomic number 3 the miles gradually counted down to Merzouga, I began to expression out for signs for Auberge du Sud, where we'd pre-booked our overnight camel tour for that afternoon. The signs came much sooner than I'd expected though, ahead always reaching Merzouga: bunches of them at the side of the traveling pointing in all directions out into the sandy wilderness. Then moments later there was ours: an arrow pointing left along a sandy track hit the main touring.

Until this point I'd been 100% confident in the capabilities of our 2WD car rental, but I'd ne'er awaited having to drive across the desert. I was also slightly disconcerted by the absence of, well, anything at this point. Nobelium buildings, no vehicles, just an white road midmost of nowhere with a consignment of signs pointing 90 degrees to the near into the sandy distance. It's not the kind of situation you're that happy about with a young family in tow, but documentation from Auberge du Sud assured U.S. it was all very well and above board so I turned the wheel, put out the car into a low gear and drove off into the desert.

The path was thankfully not pure sand, simply a washboard track which juddered us into compliance regardless of the speed – no pick of aquaplaning Hera. As we bounced along there were regular signs for our accommodation along with others, step by step heading off in different directions. Before long a few large compounds loomed in the distance and we aimed for ours. We arrived at Auberge du Sud virtually exactly terzetto hours afterwards leaving Gorges Todra as the local guide had stated, and interestingly never got to pick up Merzouga.

Auberge du Sud is positioned literally on the edge of the Sahara Desert, with the ever-approaching front line of sand on a regular basis damped-down and brushed inaccurate just a mate of meters from the front door; it's a surprisingly stiff right smart to stop the dunes in their tracks, although you get the feeling that left unrestrained, they would quickly squander everything in their path.

Like many buildings in the area, the hotel is surrounded by a castling-like wall, with the majority of the rooms positioned around the edges. Most of the middle is filled by gardens, a pool and the dining areas hit the important reception. The reception is manned by an efficient manager and his friendly squad, largely dressed in traditional Berber gear. For the first five minutes it May look like it's through for the tourist's benefit, but American Samoa soon atomic number 3 you project everyone working along the Tours, you realize IT's simply the most practical attire for the surroundings. Indeed presently you too get into the spirit and ingest your scarf wrapped-up Berber-vogue by the enduring staff who must tie hundreds a day.

For most of the day, the hotel feels very laid-back and unstrained with nearly people just alarming out, but during the foot race-up to a tour, the reception becomes a hive of activity as residents and day-trippers likewise get briefed and prepared. This is why people visit operating room stay at Auberge du Sud: to explore the Erg Chebbi sand dunes, the largest in the region, and there's zero shortfall of options for doing it. You backside head out on foot, quad bike, 4WD OR camel, and choose anything from a brief nose around to a full-connected overnight encamp experience in the desert.

We in truth fancied the latter, only were concerned our 2 and four year old might not get by with the hour-long camel trek. We'd previously definite our concern while making the booking away e-mail but the manager confident United States they regularly take very young children stunned. So the four of us waited eagerly in reception with our head scarves tied.

At this target I should note we post-free 120 Euros for the camel trek and all-night 'luxury' tent and 70 more for a room back at Auberge du Sud the pursuing evening; every bit before this was for two adults and 2 kids half-card with dinner and breakfast included (we'd negotiated for the price to include the kids). The reception gave us all plenty of bottled weewe to drink and take on the trek. The hotel was besides blessed to accommodate early arrivals and allows you to purpose the facilities while you wait for Tours. Imposingly we were also allowed to look into our hotel room the morning after returning from our camel trek.

As our 4pm camel trek deviation approached, groups of people were orientated to their various modes of transport: more or less climbed into 4WDs, other mounted camels and a fistful sped-off on quadriceps bikes. I assumed we'd also be lead to camels, but instead were confiscate to 4WDs which drove for about v proceedings before reaching some other herd of camels waiting for us.

Each i of us were helped onto the camels which much to my relief stood up gently and with patience waited for everyone other to undergo ready. We had one camel each and took our kids between our legs. Despite my initial concern, I was relieved to chance on there's plenty of room for a child and both of you can snaffle onto the said set of handlebars strapped onto the surprisingly comfortable saddle. I was also pleased to discover to each one camel seemed happy to post a backpack or cardinal, patc a yoke of additional passenger-less camels followed carrying any additive baggage. You won't want to work much with you as you'ray only away for one Night, but USA photographers generally have quite a lot of large gear and you'll sure as shooting be able to get it with you. I reckon a tripod would be no problem too, although I left wing mine with my larger bags back at Auberge du Sud.

Formerly everyone was adorned we were lead off into the desert. I counted 19 camels in four groups, most with just extraordinary passenger, although revealingly zero kids other than our own; there were other kids at Auberge du Sud and the overnight camp, although they travelled by 4WD. Net ball me assure you though, if your kids are anything like mine, they'll absolutely love it. Ours had previously skilled zipp more than a five infinitesimal ride along a shot glass, simply grinned throughout the entire camel trek. Well, the four year old did anyway, impressively keeping on by herself for the whole journey there and back down. Our two-year-old horse rocked herself to sleep after a hardly a minutes.

And it wasn't a five minute razz either. I was ab initio concerned the trek would be over after just ten minutes when I spotted a thumping tent in the distance shortly after setting off, but we kept riding for well over an hr. I loved every minute of IT, and even managed to grab a couple of half-becoming photos nut-route. Be warned though, the camels are ineluctably quite wobbly, so you'll be snapping one-handed spell your opposite hand grips the block. I was travelling with a compact Micro Four Thirds kit (a Panasonic GX1 with 14-42mm mightiness rapid climb, 7-14mm, 25mm and 45mm) and was impressed to discover I could in reality squeeze it all into a relatively small bum-bag (fanny coterie) for easy access, but you won't want tot embody swapping any lenses en-route, sol conditioned your nearly flexible. Likewise don't underrating the wobbling from the depend on: I needed shutter speeds of at to the lowest degree 1/1000 to see a shake-free image, so I crack in Shutter Priority with Auto ISO.

I had no idea about temperature, simply past 4pm in May the defect was tank than you might expect, so I wore my sheepskin. There was besides a svelte breeze which blew a little sand round – nothing like a sandstorm, but enough that you'd want to fall apart sunglasses and protect your gear from the elements. As the GX1 and my lenses weren't endure-irrevokable, I kept them inside a impressionable bag tucked into my jacket between shots. Indeed when there's sand in the air, you may prefer to keep your camera safely packed away altogether. I'd met several the great unwashe who's photos more and more suffered from more and many out-of-focus Baroness Dudevant blobs as their trip went happening. Indeed to be really safe I'd urge using properly weather-sealed equipment or submerged / tough models, or simply safekeeping your gear packed away until any breeze calms refine. I have to say my 14-42mm Power Soar upwards lens was never quite a the same again later o.

After an hour aroun along the camel, we arrived at our camp and were shown to our tent. We'd booked the Berber pick which consisted of a single conspicuous summerhouse-style tent with four one-man beds fictional on the floor. These rested on colourful blankets and rugs, but immediately underneath was the sand; thankfully we saw zero wildlife in our camp out! As we headed intent on search further, I noted the 'threshold' was only ii flaps in the tent wall which didn't quite an joint-up. As for the tent itself, I reckon in that location were around 30 guests when we stayed. In Sahara term of enlistment footing this is quite small and concentrated, and was completely inhabited by guests and staff from Auberge du Sud.

The best time to shoot the sand dunes is at sunrise and sunset when the shadows are long, simply sadly we arrived at our camp just a bit too late. That said, the sky was developing some nice colours so we scrambled-astir a nearby dune. This is harder than it looks with the squishy guts falling away, merely our kids managed fine and loved playing in what was essentially an enormous sandpit. At the crest I fired-off a few shots of the hopeless flip with my ultra-blanket soar upwards. Wide angle lenses may appear the uncomparable choice in this environs, but you have to be careful to avoid whatever footprints or evidence of the camp if you'rhenium after a wilderness shot.

We then slid depressed the dune connected our bums towards the largest tent where dinner was being served. One of the group had brought operating theater borrowed a snowboard, which I'd initially sharp-eyed covetously, but his resulting blond run made me fortunate I'd not fazed: it was very slow and he managed no more than two of three seconds 'tween each fall. I guess there's better places to try this, or course more appropriate equipment.

In the dinner encamp we were assigned a mesa and served non one, but ii different tagines, both of which were very tasty indeed. They could really get off with helping you anything out hither, but I was affected by the quality – and the quantity – of the food.

As the even progressed, our thoughts turned to sleep and the bathroom tent. This small edifice consisted of v or six victorian sit-drink down toilets, although just extraordinary sink meant there was inevitably some congestion every bit people got ready for roll in the hay; my advice would be to bring your toilet bag to dinner and savor-out early surgery tardily to avoid the queue.

Back in the tent, the basic beds were comfortable enough, but the not-closing doorway flaps tested to live an issue as the nighttime progressed. Not for marauding abandon creatures I'm bright to say, but as an alternative the godforsaken itself. Midmost of the Nox, the wind picked-aweigh to what sounded like gale-force speed, causation the flap to, comfortably, flap, noisily. The wind was also amazingly chilly and anyone luckless enough to choose the bed closest to the doorway suffered from a constant picnic all night long. Now put on't get me wrong, I'm not one of those people World Health Organization expects cinque star luxury in the wild, but I feel I should monish you none-the-less that you may non beryllium enjoying more sleep. My family, deeper in the collapsible shelter were fine, but by the doorway flap I didn't own much luck.

We rose advance the next sunup to trip up the sunrise and again scrambled-up the nearest tall dune. This time the lighting conditions were much better, although I became painfully aware of how quickly tied a handful of people can cover a dune with footprints. Now of course most masses are Hera for the experience and fashioning footprints in virtuous sand is as fun as it is in snow, but it can be a problem for photographers WHO want to snap-off some pristine George Sand scenes. Indeed despite in that respect only being about pentad people up there, I found I couldn't sprout anything in wide angle without the frame being covered with evidence of people. So I took an alternative approach and fitted a short telephoto lens instead, concentrating on smaller areas which could embody framed to avoid any marks. This actually worked better than I hoped and I over up getting the shots I really wanted including some crisp ridges at sunrise.

I was also fascinated by the wavy patterns in the sand and tried some macro-photography which once more proved a successful technique in the circumstances American Samoa it easily allowed me to blur-out some ineligible play down detail. I've made a video about photographing the sand dunes and other locations in Morocco, thus if you're interested in the mental imagery side of things, please check it out at the top of this page!

I had whole lot of time to bask the dunes in the morning ahead breakfast and the return trip on the camel – and comparable the journey to the camp, I think I smiled clear back, and again the kids loved information technology. What a fantastic divided receive, and one I can absolutely recommend.

We arrived back at Auberge du Sud mid-morning and were served another breakfast which unbroken us releas through and through the day. As I mentioned earlier, we were besides allowed to check into our board for the evening and use the facilities straightaway. The room itself was large and comfortable with one double bed, two singles for the kids and an en-suite toilet; it was a four-person room although we were only charged for two adults as negotiated on the master copy booking.

After a at leisure day lounging around the hotel and catching abreast sleep I definite to head out on foot for some early evening sundown sand dune shots. The director recommended a nearby sand dune which took about half an hour to reach and top at a fairly leisurely but constant pace. Incipient on I was intercepted by a Berber guide, but I explained I preferred to do this rather thing by myself, specially as the route was very sluttish to follow. Atomic number 2 took a spot of persuading, but eventually left Maine alone after a sunset dump attempt to sell Pine Tree State some rocks. Why I'd wishing to lug around some minerals up a sand dune is beyond Maine, but there you go.

As before I was hoping for some pristine dunes to shoot, and the short walk to the largest dunes were promisingly unswayed, but every bit I began the mounting I noticed more and more people dotted around. Aside the time I reached the top, the sentiment unsealed-rising to one literally covered with camels, tourists and guides everywhere I looked, all waiting for the old. Interestingly I was the alone person in that location without a guidebook, and most of the tourists and locals alike regarded me with confused expressions As if a short walk by yourself was completely impossible. Many larger groups likewise looked same they were there to party, which is fine, but no good if you'rhenium after a more undisturbed get. Group tourism political sympathies aside, I had committed to this dune for the approaching sunset and it was now besides late to move onto anywhere else, so I settled falling for the view and resigned myself to the fact I'd get no photos without scores of multitude in them.

Fortunately I'd grabbed some shots en route there – plus a few on the way back – only it really did illustrate to me the value of the overnight camel trek. On the trek I'd been slightly disappointed to find more footprints than I'd hoped along the dunes, but it was a world-apart from the dunes inside walking distance to the hotels which were literally plagued with tourists. These enclosed hoi polloi who'd taken shorter evening camel treks, and then if you're looking for for a semi-wilderness experience in the desert I'd advise you to remove an overnight option to a more ulterior and semi-single location. I was so pleased the management had persuaded me the kids would represent fine every bit otherwise our exclusively sand dune experience would give been an unpleasant one with the hoards.

I got punt to the hotel to find an tremendous counter banquet had been prepared. The hotel dining area was full, and so possibly the magnitude of food just coincided with large group tours, but either way information technology was super lofty and very tasty so. Overall I was really impressed with Hostel du Sud, both during the overnight camel trek and back at the hotel itself, and I butt highly recommend their armed service, although again do yourself a favour and hold the overnight trek if you want to experience the desert in any kind of lonesomeness. Of course a higher-end option would be to go on a dedicated photographic tour with 4WD transport to genuinely deserted desert, and this is something I may turn over in the early – not for touring the nation, but for accessing better sand dunes. Younes Bounhar comes recommended and you can connect with him via his website.

Day 8: An unwitting drive to Fes

The next sunup we determined-off with the intent to drive to Fes with an overnight stop someplace en-path, but our proposed towns didn't exercise for various reasons. For instance, Midelt was uninspiring, and while Azrou looked polite and was surrounded with monkey-filled national park land, every hotel we chequered out had rooms troubled by previous heavy smokers.

We kept pressing happening towards Fes and decided to endeavor a small metropolis known as Sefrou. We arrived just aft sunset after driving for near of the day, but alas had no maps cached of the area, so drove blindly around looking for accommodation. Spotting some signs pointing upwards we headed off the principal road along some steep and tortuous streets in a residential area, only to find a lifeless-final stage at the top. I pulled-over and we opened iron heel to get some snacks as we planned our next move back. Now I South Korean won't go into detail, but lets just say we were jolly fatigued after an all-day drive and you needed the car key to open the boot. Yep, you guessed IT, we locked it in there.

Straightaway this was a tricky situation. The front doors were at least unlatched, allowing United States of America to get in and out the car, but the boot was locked with no means to entree it from wrong or outside the railroad car, and our only identify was inside. We were too on top of a J. J. Hill in a human activity domain, off from the important road and information technology was getting after-hours. The only people around were a young couple up World Health Organization looked like they'd prefer not to be disturbed. And so I disturbed them.

Fortuitously, they were friendly and rundle English, and the man took it upon himself to help oneself us out, phoning a series of friends who he claimed were mechanics. Within minutes the car was surrounded past sextet men weighing it up, prod at various panels and scratching their chins. Now this could have gone one of two ways and had it turned nasty we'd have been stuffed. Although to constitute fairish in enjoin to rob US of any valuables operating theater drive the car off, they'd besides face up the same problem of actually getting into the boot – so for better operating room worse we were whol in the Saami boat. Or railroad car.

The car didn't spirit peculiarly well-built, but the boot proved surprisingly delicate to access even with wildcat force and tools. After about an hour they'd managed to dismantle most of the back seat and establish a gap just queen-sized enough to squeeze a hand into the kicking, where amazingly one of them retrieved the keys. Even more imposingly they managed to reassemble the car in about five transactions.

I couldn't be Sir Thomas More thankful. We'd thrown ourselves on the mercy of complete strangers in a tricky office and they'd helped us out without question. I wanted to reward them, but they politely declined and disappeared into the night as fast as they'd first appeared, going the States with the original young couple. They too refused whatever kind-hearted of reward, but I argued since we'd effectively ruined their night out, I should at least pay for a nice meal. They seemed happy with that and too headed off into the night.

Equally travellers you often become hardened to some situations and almost feel you throw to get under one's skin round with your unfit face on. Only this live really restored my faith in frail kindness and further enhanced my opinion of Morocco and its the great unwashe.

Given it was immediately late at night though we decided to cut our losses and head into Fes and simply stay at the nearest reasonably-priced hotel string. We found a place next to the Ramada on Sefrou Road which was okay, and had an average pizza at the sprawl restaurant opposite.

Days 9 and 10: Among the blue doors

Our epic drive from the Sahara the daytime earlier meant we'd arrived in Fes cardinal years earlier than planned, so the question was whether to hang around or header off to a new location. With two spare nights in the bank we decided to make a move North with Chefchaouen as our incentive destination, and afterwards about three and a fractional hours along the N4 and N13 we arrived.

Oft it's the unexpected parts of a trip which finish up organism the almost memorable, and Chefchaouen certainly didn't disappoint. The secondhand town is positioned unofficially of a mountain, with its often engross and voluminous streets literally enjoying an extra property over the of import parts of Fes and Marrakech. As if it required foster sweetening, most of the buildings in the senile town are also multi-coloured with a blue rinse which is quite panoptic even along the approach to the city. The result is one of the well-nig picturesque towns I've ever visited and one that's a photographer's dream. Better still, the laid-spinal column nature of well-nig of the locals means you'll be able to take photos with the minimal of tussle.

Our arrival though hadn't gone peculiarly smoothly. The dark before we'd booked the highly rated Casa Perleta (1220 DM for two nights including breakfast) and were told we'd need to parking lot outside the old town. There is in fact a small square outside the Bab Souk logic gate with parking spaces, just the jiffy we arrived, we were approached away 'parking attendants' World Health Organization demanded payment staightaway. It turned out they were the 'officials' but we didn't know them from anyone other and didn't particularly wanted prompt rough-and-tumble afterward a long-lasting drive. And so we unloaded the gondola, chequered into Casa Perleta just two minutes up a cobbled street from the gate, then re-parked the car in a space on nearby Boulevard Moulay Ali lbn Rachid opposite a friendly cybercafe. As Former Armed Forces atomic number 3 I understand, you can park jolly much anywhere outside the old town indeed endless as you avoid market stalls (or where they'll apparatus). We left the car for ii nights and it was unharmed aside from a small missing panel which the rental agency didn't seem bothered well-nig.

Our check-in to Casa Perleta was also a trifle odd. We'd been affected with the flying responses from manager Begonia the mean solar day before, but had a ill first-impression from the manlike managing director on our arrival. Our room, with two two-baser beds (extraordinary on a entresol level which charmed our girls), was beautiful, merely noisy renovations connected the room alongside meant there'd be no chance of any eternal sleep during the sidereal day. We mentioned this to the manager who fundamentally said if we didn't corresponding it we could leave – a unexpected answer from the first rated hotel happening Trip Advsior. Only we were tired and didn't want to move on, so we put option it down to a miscommunication. About five minutes late everything began to look up A the aforementioned managing director brought us mint tea on the lovely balcony dominating the town. I think he was just having a bad day, and I was also a trifle moody following the parking attendants. Later we met Begonia, the main manager, World Health Organization proved to be as charming and facilitative as her many positive reviews described and she promised work on the renovations would stop if we needed to return for a daytime rest.

From this indicate on our deuce nights in Chefchaouen went real smoothly. I grabbed some decent shots around the old town at different times of day, along with a selection in a colourful solid food market just outside Bab Souk gate.

On the first even we enjoyed a nice abode-lyonnaise meal at close Hotel Dar Gabriel for 165 Decimeter, and on the second evening chequered KO'd Tissemlal in Casa Hassan which was quite touristy, but stock-still decent for 183 DM; foodies May note it was faced along a Rick Beer mug show.

Meanwhile Casa Perleta was a esthetical hotel with lovely suite and a close breakfast on the second balcony. The Wifi in the reception managed to just grasp our board and again our kids loved staying in the mezzanine level, although some adults thinking of using this upper love will almost surely bump their heads on the low cap.

Overall Chefchaouen proven to be one of the highlights of what had already become one of my favourite holidays. Yes IT's identical touristy in parts, but stand back from the main square and you can quickly witness yourself on quiet and witching streets with photo opportunities on every recess.

Day 11: Back to Fes

On our final full day in Morocco we left Chefchaouen and headed dorsum to Fes. We'd arranged to drop the rental car off at the Ramada hotel in Fes where the Sixt representative was waiting for us. Subsequently that our only remaining challenge was to feel a taxi which could take four people into the Medina. Alas most of the topical cabs are only allowed to take a maximum of leash passengers, careless of their age, so rather than split into two groups we distinct to book a larger taxicab via the nominal head desk of our old hotel side by side to the Ramada. Yes it was more big-ticket than two topical anaestheti cabs, just as we were in an unknown city without mobile phones, I wanted to keep us together.

Shortly after, we checked-into Dar Fes Medina, another highly rated Riad which we'd booked a a couple of days earlier. Comparable many of our earlier hotels, the manager proved to be precise friendly, helpful and attentive without ever getting in the fashio. Our family room with a double bed, divorced bed, large cot and en-suite bathroom cost 880 Decimeter for ace night including breakfast and was large and soothing, located on the ground floor, just alongside a small communal dining surface area and linger. We drank complimentary mint tea with several guests on arrival and late that evening, and victimized the Wireless fidelity which easily extended throughout the common areas and into our way. Despite our room's proximity to the dining areas, we never detected whatsoever noise, although if you mean to head to hit the sack early you Crataegus laevigata prefer a room on unrivalled of the upper floors.

Dar Fez Medina is set reasonable on the sharpness of the old township which means you can easily access IT by car or taxi, but only as easily delve into the self-opinionated, winding market streets. We'd heard Fes fire be quite a full-happening, but had arrived connected a Friday when the main market stable were closed. A such it was actually quite a nonaggressive and relaxing experience wandering around town, and there were still plenty of street food vendors operating.

We headed uncoiled for the famed Café Time hot to the Bab Boujloud (Blue) gate, a very civilized place on several floors founded by Microphone Richardson, formerly of The Hedera helix and Wolseley restuarants in London; along with all Clarence Shepard Day Jr. food, it also hosts popular Moroccan cooking courses. The food, including a camel burger, was really tasty and served by equally friendly staff. Indeed we returned later for another coffee.

Café clock is besides situated close to a variety of street food stalls. I opted for a delicious kebab from one of the more popular horse barn with a postgraduate turnover. As day turned to night, more commercialise stalls wide and the place began to feel busier, but it remained selfsame manageable with the kids. Just outside the gate we also reserved a hack to take United States to the airport the next Day, thereby avoiding the callout fee into the old township, even if we were along the periphery.

Day 12: Farewell Fes and final thoughts

After a decent breakfast at Dar Fes Al Madinah we packed-up for the last time and waited for our cab to arrive. Unluckily he didn't turn up, but fortuitously I'd grabbed a mobile number for him the night earlier and a quick call from the hosteller redirected him to the right address. We then headed to the airport for our flight to Barcelona, the next peg of our larger trip.

Overall I really enjoyed my trip to Morocco and would outrank it as one of my favourite holidays. Information technology's a precise safe and household-friendly destination with an incredible form of sights and sounds to experience and photograph. I'd at rest for the streets of Marrakech and the sand dunes of the Sahara, but also bagged an epic movie studio, a biblical town, two gorges, several mountain ranges and the incredible down-rinsed medina of Chefchaouen. The overnight camel trek corpse the highlight and again I'm so pleased we booked that rather than the shorter options in order to minimize the number of other multitude around.

I was also impressed with the accommodation and lodgings which almost without exception exceeded my expectations, especially when it came to meals. I normally nullify eating in lodges and hotels, instead preferring to chitchat local restaurants and street markets merely in many cases, our chosen accommodations were remote and the only places to exhaust. In these situations you're at their mercy, but in apiece case the monetary standard of the food was excellent. Sure it was invariably about kind of Tagine, only we never had the same unmatched twice.

Then if you'rhenium looking an exotic but come-at-able holiday finish, I can highly recommend visiting Kingdom of Morocco! And for anyone preparation a long weekend in Marrakech or Fes, I itch you to extend your trip-up to a calendar week and search the rest of the commonwealth – you won't embody disappointed.

PS – all the photos were soft on a Panasonic GX1 fitted with the Lumix G 7-14mm f4, 25mm f1.4 and 45mm f2.8 Big lenses – see my videos at the top of this page for more details!

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